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Copper peptides: a guide for formulators

"Copper peptide" in skincare almost always means one substance: GHK-Cu, the tripeptide glycyl-histidyl-lysine bound to a copper ion. On an ingredient list it is Copper Tripeptide-1. This guide is for people who formulate with it or buy it for a brand. It covers what the ingredient is and how to buy it, not what a finished serum does.

The names, untangled

You will seeIt means
GHK-CuThe chemist's shorthand: the peptide GHK and its copper
Copper Tripeptide-1The INCI name, used on cosmetic labels
Copper peptide, copper peptidesThe everyday name; usually GHK-Cu
Prezatide copperAnother name for the same complex
GHK, Tripeptide-1The peptide alone, without the copper

The last row matters. Tripeptide-1 and Copper Tripeptide-1 are different ingredients with different INCI names. Check which one a specification names.

What it is, chemically

Three amino acids, glycine, histidine and lysine, joined in that order, holding a copper(II) ion. PubChem lists the complex as C₁₄H₂₃CuN₆O₄⁺, with a molecular weight of 402.92 g/mol and the CAS number 89030-95-5.

The copper gives the powder its blue colour, and a solution of it is blue too. A formula that has lost that colour has usually lost the complex.

Powder, solution, serum

  • Powder is the raw ingredient: what a manufacturer buys and what we supply.
  • A stock solution is powder dissolved for use on a production line.
  • A copper peptide serum is a finished cosmetic with the ingredient in it. We do not make or sell serums.

What to ask a supplier for

  1. The grade. Cosmetic grade for a topical product. Research grade is a different item, for laboratories.
  2. The certificate of analysis for the batch, with identity and purity. How to read a certificate of analysis
  3. The copper content, if the certificate reports it. It tells you the peptide is carrying its copper.
  4. A specification sheet and safety data sheet.
  5. The manufacturer's formulation guidance: the use level, pH range and incompatibilities it recommends. We pass on what the manufacturer publishes and do not add our own.

Claims on the finished product

Dubai Municipality's guidelines define a cosmetic by what it is for: cleaning, perfuming, changing appearance, protecting or keeping the skin in good condition. A claim that a product or its ingredients can prevent, cure or alleviate a disease is a medical claim and has no place on a cosmetic.

So a brand can describe how skin looks and feels. It cannot describe treatment. The claims and the evidence for them belong to the brand. Registering a cosmetic product in the UAE

Never for injection

Cosmetic-grade GHK-Cu is an ingredient for products applied to the skin. We do not supply it for injection, and nothing on this site should be read as suggesting that use.

Buying GHK-Cu in the UAE

We supply cosmetic-grade GHK-Cu to brands and manufacturers, and research-grade GHK-Cu to laboratories. GHK-Cu product page · all cosmetic ingredients · for skincare brands

For other peptides used in skincare, see cosmetic peptides: an ingredient glossary.